The Fashion East platform is the playpen for nascent talent in London. But what was surprising today was how mature some young designers' ideas can be without losing any of their edge.
It is hard to pass judgment on designers at this stage in their careers; people who start off in one place can turn around in a few years and shock the hell out of you both for good and for bad. But the Lulu Kennedy-run showcase has a good track record.
Where the experiments in texture were fine. He is known for his fabric innovation but the taste left something to be desired. When it felt like it needed to be spiked with something stronger. Or maybe that's just this reviewer's palate.
In fact simplicity is the best fashion. Here, there was a fifties rockabilly sensibility that actually pointed to the designer's interest in punk. Punks looked back to this time to get those basic back, she said of her music choice. Equally, she looked back to go forward in the fashion she has been making. She hoped her defied some easy explanation, and it worked, in a good way.
After enjoying two previous seasons of Fashion East, Maarten van der Horst was the only designer to have his output on the catwalk. Not surprisingly, His work felt the most ready to leave the playpen's confines, and yet it had lost none of its youthful bravado. Much spun around the detritus of consumer corporate culture, particularly the motif of the carrier bag. And the cheap carrier bags at that the kind you get from the supermarket or the market stall, not the designer kind. Tesco bags were a particularly prominent part of the collection. In London this season, Fashion East really did point the way forward to something different in fashion today.
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